It seems the name of the game is to either go with people you know, or go to a hostel where it’s easy to meet people, because, like most things, everything that’s awesome about Mendoza is far, far better when you’re doing it with friends. So, the the former, I highly recommend going to the Hostel Laos, which I’ll discuss more later. And, to the different activities, you absolutely have to do the Bikes and Wine vineyard pseudo-meta-tour, and the hot springs.
In general, Mendoza feels like Soho Palermo expanded out into an entire city- green, lush, and pretty upscale. It also happens to be in the middle of wine country, making for some really breathtaking views, and lots to do nearby. A couple of friends from the hostel there went on a two day trek near the Chilean border they said was incredible, staying at a The Shining like, almost deserted hotel in the middle of nowhere. Going to the hostel with a great group of five was phenomenal, just hanging out, getting surprisingly not overpriced lunch, and drifting from cold pools to hot pools to super hot pools. As one little Argentinean boy of around eight said upon putting a foot into the hot hot spring, mostly for our benefit:
“Shit, shit, shit, shit, shit!”
Which, I must say, sounds hilarious with a thick Argentinean accent- and, following that, in a display of what must be Argentinean super-strength, he then proceeded to sit in the water for a good ten minutes as everyone else looked on in awe. Just putting a foot in made it feel like you are causing permanent damage, every nerve on fire, scaldingly hot… until, you just don’t notice anymore. Or the nerves have died. Or something. And that’s just sitting on the ledge with legs submerged- which caused even Argentinean Super Boy to remark, in Spanish, “My balls are burning” as he stepped out.
Though, shortly thereafter, a ridiculously good looking Argentinean couple got in, holding hands, and submerged up to their necks and lay there for a good twenty minutes, eyes closed, not moving. Anna thought it must be the Argentinean hotness shielding them from the heat, and I’d have to agree- another model-like couple did the same thing later in the day. Yowza.
The vineyards tour is also incredible, but less due to eight year old hot spring antics, and more due to gorgeous scenery, good tours, distilleries with mind blowing display cases, and the best meal I’ve ever had in my life for 35 pesos. To get to the area with the vineyards, Maipu, you just hop on a bus for $1.50 pesos- about 20 minutes later, you get off next to Bikes and Wine, go, pay either 15 pesos or 30 pesos, I forget, and in return, you get a bike and a map of the places to go. All with, I must say, some rather pimping executive bike parking for the discerning clients of Bikes and Wine- classy.
The area immediately around Bikes and Wine was undergoing pretty heavy construction, not exactly the picture of biking through vineyards- however, upon turning onto the road for the first winery, it was precisely the picture- green, lush, vineyards on either side, overhanging trees to provide shade, with rays of light filtering through, and just a handful of bikers and an occasional car to break up the emptiness of the road. On arriving at the vineyard, Journey was playing- yes, Journey. Clearly, the soundtrack for an epic wine tour. Though, the wine tour turned out to be a bit different, the guy who ran the place took us and a Buenos Aires couple to a showroom where he explained the history of the facility, what they make, and the then walked us through the various products.
And there were a lot of them- no wine, but everything from chocolates to bizarre permutations of whisky to absinth to chocolate con leche e bananas. Just dozens of them, punctuated by the owner’s comments on the various drinks (On Absinth: “this one will make you paint like Picasso!”). After that, we went to a store/tables area where he said we could order one thing to taste, and, after that, we spent a good twenty minutes deciding what to get. When Tobacco Whisky is on the list, you know you have a lot of narrowing down to do..
After that, we went to lunch at the one place on the map- expecting some small diner sort of deal. Instead, on arriving, there was an enormous gate beyond which appeared to be another vineyard. Buzz in, the gate slides to the side, and we bike in- very classy building, table area to the left, parking ahead. On getting to the parking area (with our executive bike parking), the guard told us to wait. Then, after a minute or so, a girl came out and explained that it’s 35 pesos for lunch, and there is no menu- lunch is steak, potatoes, salad, and then desert of a pastry on ice cream. Which sounded good, so we followed her to the table. She then brought out an enormous bread basket, and we took stock of the surroundings.
It was seriously just mindblowing- a beautiful garden, pool, a handful of tables on a terrace with only one other group, vineyards to the side, and sunlight doing that filtering through the leaves thing, which never gets old. In the background, cheesy lounge music was playing- which, after listening, turned out to be a lounge cover of Radiohead’s Creep… albeit with modified lyrics. I guess
“I wish I was special/
so fucking special,”
Doesn’t play well with the lounge crowd.
But, the meal was just amazing. They may make only one thing, but they damned well know how to make it. The steak was enormous, juicy, and delicious- the best I’ve ever had. Everything was delicious, and the perfect ambiance didn’t hurt matters.
Just phenomenal.
Following that, we got a veritable wine tour at a veritable winery, so now I actually know what Malbec is versus a Chardonnay instead of just picking blindly from the wine list, and the tour was pretty interesting in its own right. After that, it was on to an olive oil place, but by the time we got there it was late enough that we had to leave right away to get back to the Bikes and Wine place before it closed. Great day though, and cheap, when you discount the urge to buy way too much stuff from the distillery place. Thank god for a lack of room in luggage.
Outside of that, it’s mostly just exploring the city, maybe taking part in other activities like rafting, paragliding, or horseback riding in the area, and just enjoying the change the place.
With all that said, the last point here is really just this- stay at the Hostel Laos, period. It’s easy to arrange activities, it’s easy to meet people, everyone’s friendly, hammocks are there if you’re waiting for a room, breakfast is decent (impressive for a hostel), wireless is free and only slightly flakey, you can work wirelessly from a hammock when you put one and one together, leading to the ability to casually drop the fact that you are typing from a hammock in Mendoza, Argentina on a wireless connection in instant messaging conversations, and it’s just got a great vibe. Plus it’s cheap- 30 pesos (~$10 USD) for a bed, $20 pesos ($6.50 USD) for a hammock when you’re waiting for a bed.
Unfortunately, though, my trip here was cut short, and my plans pretty well screwed up, since I stupidly got myself an ear infection, by going to hot springs with a lingering cold, and then sleeping outside in a hammock that night because I didn’t book a bed for long enough. Waking up in a hammock to a gorgeous sunrise with birds chirping is great, but waking up to throbbing ear pain, not so much- but, on the plus side, I got to try out health care in Argentina, so I’ll make a post on that later.
Needless to say, it’s great, and I got an exam and a course of antibiotics for $60 US, $20 for exam, $40 for the three medications (antibiotics, pain, and cough) It’s all good, or will be in a day or two, but I’m not going back to Buenos Aires to be lazy for a week instead of paragliding in Cordoba, since something about having an ear infection puts a wrench in being outside and doing stuff. Funny how the works.
But, ear infections due to unbridled personal stupidity, and kindly English speaking doctors to save my ass, aside, Mendoza was fantastic, and I can’t wait to go back at some point- definitely recommended.
